10th-12th March

Day 1 - 10^th Mar   - Delhi to Paro

At Paro we were met at the airport by our guide for the whole of our stay in Bhutan, Sonam Tshering.  After exchanging a few pleasantries Sonam took us to the Pa Chhu River, a pleasant fast flowing river not far from Paro to get our birding underway.  

The Pa Chhu River 

On the way we had a Black Eagle low over the vehicle and later at the river we saw Ibisbill, Wallcreeper, Ruddy Shelduck and a Bar-headed Goose.  We also saw a variety of what were to be common Bhutan birds, such as Hodgson’s Redstart, Hodgson’s White Wagtail, Rufous-breasted Accenter and Russet Sparrow.

Ibisbill - One of the most wanted waders of the trip and one of the first birds we saw!

Bar-headed Goose and Ruddy Shelduck

Wallcreeper - Another of the most wanted birds and we were surprised to find this on our first day as they should be at higher elevations at this time.

Hodgson's White Wagtail (Motacilla alba alboides) -  A regular sight during our trip.

Russet Sparrow - Another of the regular birds seen.  A rather smart Sparrow.

White-capped Redstart  

After lunch in restaurant in Paro, a quick look in the shops (the only souvenir shops we saw during the whole trip!), we checked in at the Hotel Olathang mid-afternoon and enjoyed a refreshing cup of tea.  We then drove up the road towards Haa.  This was a high-altitude road which went through the Chele La Forest.  There had been a snowfall a day or so before which made driving in the higher elevations difficult.  On route we saw a pair of Kalij Pheasants.  We returned to the hotel by the same route.

Grey-backed Shrike - A species seen on several days.

Kalij Pheasant - Unfortunately taken in fading light by the side of a tree covered road.

Spotted Laughingthrush - 

We spent the night in Hotel Olathang, situated on a hill just outside Paro (Altitude 2,300m).

Hotel Olathang

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Day 2 – 11^th March  - Paro area

A change of plan due to the snow on the Haa road.  It was decided to do the trek to the Tiger’s Nest Monastery a day earlier than planned, so we set off early and on the way stopped for some birding along the Pa Chhu river.   We then stopped for a group of Brown Parrotbills that Sonam picked up at the side of the road.   

Brown Parrotbill -  Part of  flock of about 20 birds.

At the parking area for the trek we were met by the food team (also known as the Breakfast Boys and the Lunch Crew) and enjoyed a pleasant breakfast as plenty of new birds moved around us.  This included a smart Blue-fronted Redstart, Bar-throated Siva (previously known as Chestnut-tailed Minla) and the common Green-backed Tit.

Breakfast time before the hike.  Note Sonam is wearing traditional Bhutan dress.

Blue-fronted Redstart - Seen close to the breakfast site.

After breakfast we started on the long and strenuous trek to the monastery.  This involved a total attitude gain of 900 metres (1700 feet), eventually reaching an altitude of 3120 metres (10232 feet).  The first part of the trek was up fairly steep paths and the last part was up (and down) 1400 steps!    Breath-taking, literally!! 

Streak-breasted Scimitar-babbler  - 

White-throated Laughingthrush - Seen fairly regularly.

Spotted Nutcracker  - 

On the way up to the half way point we did pick up several nice species of birds including a confiding Darjeeling Woodpecker, Streak-breasted Scimitar-babbler, White-throated Laughingthrush, Yellow-billed Blue-magpie and Spotted Nutcracker.  We also stopped for coffee at the café at the half way point.

Darjeeling Woodpecker - This individual was intent on feeding and did not seem to be aware of our presence.

Yellow-billed Blue-magpie - Seen on several days during the trip.

Then the going got really tough and while on the steps that led to the Monastery we saw a nice flock of Snow Pigeons and a small group of Alpine Accenters.  While at the monastery we did see two Nepal House Martins briefly.

Snow Pigeons -  About 10 birds were present fairly close to the monastery.

Alpine Accenter - 1 of 7 seen just under the monastery.  Below also.

The Monastery itself was very impressive and well worth the huge effort to get there.  It was unbelievably founded in the 8^th century and built in the 17th century with all materials being carried there!  For more information see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Paro_Taktsang

Arriving back in the parking area we were treated to great views of some confiding Olive-backed Pipits. 

Rufous-breasted Accentor - 

Olive-backed Pipit - 

We ended the day we a bit of riverside birding along the Pa Chuu (so as not to have to do any more walking with our sore feet!). 

We then headed back to the Hotel Olathang, enjoyed a walk around the grounds before having a pleasant evening meal and the first of many beers.

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Day 3 – 12^th March  -  Paro  to  Thimphu

This day we did head over the high pass over to the small town of Haa.  The road was a little clearer of snow than on 10^th so there was no problem in driving despite the high point of 3988 metres altitude over the Chele La Pass.  The star bird was undoubtedly Himalayan Monal and several were seen moving away although one did give us longer albeit distant views.  

The Chele La Pass at 3988 metres altitude. Still areas of snow on the ground.  Also plenty of prayer flags fluttering in the wind.

Himalayan view

Himalayan Monal  - A stunning male but rather distant.

Himalayan Bluetail

In the same area we also saw Himalayan White-browed Rosefinch, Himalayan Bluetail, Collared Grosbeak, White-winged Grosbeak, a large flock of Plain Mountain Finch and also several of the more common species such as a Blue Whistling-thrush, Grey-crested Tits and Coal Tits (with a crest, but apparently the same species as found in the UK!).  Mammal sightings were Yaks and the slightly smaller Pikas!

Himalayan White-browed Rosefinch - Never allowing a close approach.

Grey-crested Tit 

Rufous-vented Tit  - Only seen on two days during our trip.
A species restricted to the Himalayas and to parts of China.

Yak 

Common Pika

We were above the snow line when we met up with the Breakfast Boys at the side of the road, so we stopped for a pleasant breakfast, albeit in rather cool temperatures (but sunny).  

Breakfast above the snow line.  Great food and hot (and spicy).

After breakfast we moved down the mountain towards Haa and then back south and east towards Thimphu along a river valley.  We stopped a several places along the way, lunch being provided at one stop.  The most notable bird was a Himalayan Buzzard.

We arrived at Thimphu fairly late in the day and headed for a Crake and Solitary Snipe site before moving onto the sewage works which was adjacent to the city of Thimphu.  Here was open water, muddy pools and the fast flowing river alongside.  We soon picked up a number of species of ducks (not much duck habitat in Bhutan!) which included good numbers of Ruddy Shelduck, a surprise Common Shelduck, a Ferruginous Duck, Garganey, Wigeon and a couple of Common Mergansers (Goosanders) and a Crested Kingfisher on the river.  In a marshy area alongside the works we managed to get reasonable views of a Black-tailed Crake.  Waders here and on the river were represented by good numbers of River Lapwing, a Green Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper and two more Ibisbill.

The view towards Haa.

White-browed Fulvetta  

Oriental Turtle-dove  

We arrived at Thimphu fairly late in the day and headed for a Crake and Solitary Snipe site before moving onto the sewage works which was adjacent to the city of Thimphu.  Here was open water, muddy pools and the fast flowing river alongside.  We soon picked up a number of species of ducks (not much duck habitat in Bhutan!) which included good numbers of Ruddy Shelduck, a surprise Common Shelduck, a Ferruginous Duck, Garganey, Wigeon and a couple of Common Mergansers (Goosanders) and a Crested Kingfisher on the river.  In a marshy area alongside the works we managed to get reasonable views of a Black-tailed Crake.  Waders here and on the river were represented by good numbers of River Lapwing, a Green Sandpiper, Common Sandpiper and two more Ibisbill.

Thimphu Sewage Treatment Works with the light fading.

Ruddy and Common Shelduck the latter being a bit of a surprise.

Ibisbill - Another chance to see this superb wader.

River Lapwing - Several were seen along this stretch of the river.

Ruddy Shelduck -

As we finished birding it was getting dark but only a short drive to the River View Hotel.  Here we had an enjoyable dinner with Chubzang Tangbi, the organiser of our trip and who happened to live nearby.

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